NYFW: Backstage Pass to Nanette Lepore SS 2012

James Kaliardos, lead artist for MAC, was inspired by color, specifically shades of bright neon, for the face he created backstage at Nanette Lepore’s spring show.

“This season we’re seeing a lot of shows where the makeup is not the same on every model,” said Kaliardos. “It’s about celebrating the specific girl’s beauty and enhancing it with products that are right for her.”  Kaliardos used one of four lip colors — hot pink, lavender, fuchsia and bold orange — on lips, depending on the model’s hair color and skin tone. “I think the lavender lip is most surprising,” said Kaliardos. The bold, matte hues came from a new limited edition MAC lip palette, which launches this fall. “We wanted to push the boundaries of color, using it almost as a psychological weapon,” said Kaliardos. On faces, Kaliardos used MAC Studio Moisture Fix Foundation for face and body as well as Mineralize Skin Finish in Medium/Deep to sculpt the cheekbone. Eyes were given a dusting of Young Venus shadow — a pale pink shimmer — and lashes coated with Haute and Naughty Mascara in black.

Rolando Beauchamp, lead hair for Bumble and Bumble, achieved the desired “frizzy texture” and “product-heavy finish” by first layering Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray and Styling Wax and blow-drying. He used a straight iron only on girls with curly hair. Inspired by a model at the show fitting, Beauchamp wanted a look that was “a little greasy in the front and dry in the back.”

“She came in with dirty hair, which she pulled out of a ponytail, and it looked amazing just as it was,” said Beauchamp, who used Surf Spray at the ends of hair to mimic the texture he noted.